TPC Restoration

Chinking as we know it today are the materials used between logs that “seal” the gap between two logs. The original builders of log cabins called this outer “seal” “Daubing”. Chinking was actually the material that was placed between the logs, behind the Daubing. So, in reality, Perm-Chink should be called Perm-Daub.

Wordnik definition of chinking: From The Century Dictionary.

  • noun The process of filling the interstices between the logs of log houses preparatory to plastering them over with clay. The double process is known as chinking and daubing.
  • noun The material used for filling chinks.

When staining a newly constructed log home, we are asked frequently why it’s important to pressure clean the home when the logs are new? There arev 2 reasons pressure cleaning is important for your new log home: mill glaze and mildew. Mill glaze happens when the logs are being shaped at the mill. The mill blades are turning at such high rpms that it creates mill glaze, which closes up the pores of the logs and will not allow stain to adhere and penetrate the wood properly.

Things like log splits – or pieces of limbs and log breaks were wedged in between the logs – some of these pieces reaching 6 feet or more in length. Also found, were precise wood wedges that were probably split from short log cuts and split out with a froe and mallet. Stones from creek beds were often wedged tightly in the log joints. These are placed so tightly at times we have to sledge hammer them out.
The Jucklins, A Novel by Opie Read

““chinking,” — as the mountaineers call the series of short slats which are set diagonally in the spaces between the logs of the walls, and on which the clay is thickly daubed.”

So, the chinking was carefully placed in the spaces between the logs and wedged very tightly to prevent this material from falling out. The chinking would be permanent, while the daubing was known as something that would have to be regularly maintained, repaired or replaced.

Once the chinking was tightly in place, the visible chinking would have rough surfaces or even little ledges created by the logs, wedges or stone. These ledges would allow a place for the daubing to “grab hold” and have a place to sit until fully dried or cured.

Daubing, much like chinking, was formulated by what was common to the area. But basically, it was a mixture of mud or clay, mixed with hay/straw/grass and animal hair (pig, horse, cow). Sometimes we find evidence of wood ash from the fireplace and small stream pebbles and sand. Often the final coat of the daubing was smooth and sometimes had lime infused with it. Now inside the house, the daubing was the same materials, but often the daubing was finished off with a lime paint or whitewash. A lot of times the logs inside were covered with the same whitewash. I believe this was done to create light and give it a more finished decorative look.

Daubing would have to be maintained regularly, usually every Spring and Fall after the freeze and thaws.

Modern Methods of Chinking and Daubing

We use a galvanized metal lathe wire nailed on to the logs above and below each gap with galvanized 8 penny nails. We place these nails about every 4” and bend them over to hold the wire taught. I believe the wire (chinking) is key to a durable daubing finish. Our daubing is a mixture of sand, Portland cement, hydrated lime and fiberglass fiber. The mixture varies dependent on the size of the chinking joints.

The placement of the chinking and the daubing are the skilled part of preservation, and the most critical part of long term protection. We “tuck” our wire back under the top log about an inch and a half to allow for ¾” Portland daubing and ¾” set back under log. Then we land the bottom of the wire (chinking) on the log under that about ½”, which will allow for ½” mud and to come out flush on the “face” of the log.

If you allow the daubing to come out to the face of the upper log, water will get in behind it and pull away as the cambium layer of the log fails. If you don’t bring the lower part of the daubing to be flush with the face, you have created a ledge where water will sit and eventually rot the log under it.

After 25 years in the business, and working 5 of those years with Charles McRaven, who has used this technique for well over 50 years, I have never seen any failures from his or my chinking. Now that’s not to be said I haven’t found chinking placed in the wall wrong and found catastrophic log rot. This is where cement base chinking has gotten a bad reputation because it wasn’t properly applied or installed.

While Portland base chinking is good for antique old cabins, you absolutely cannot apply this technique to “new/green” log homes as it will bust and crack out very soon as the green logs shrink. The new synthetic chinking is really the only way to go for the new log homes. Of course, TPC Restoration is knowledgeable and qualified more than I am to address this product. Contact TPC for more information on that!

Happy Chinking!

Written by Tim Beasley from Country Mountain Homes